Woven and interlocking materials
Check canvas is a form of canvas, in which the warp threads are worked in three sets of two threads, and the weft threads are worked in three sets of four threads. GVE
Cloth is a general term for a fabric or textile. It usually refers to a woven material.
Cloth of gold was an extremely expensive fabric produced at different periods and in different parts of the world, but especially known from late medieval Europe, and produced particularly in northern Italy. It is characterised by gold (or sometimes silver) threads (normally passing) woven into a precious, often a silk fabric, creating a stiff and heavy (and very expensive) material.
Congress canvas is a form of mono-canvas made from cotton, with a mesh count of 24 per inch. At the beginning of the twenty-first century a major producer of this type of canvas was the German firm of Zweigart und Sawitzki.
Cordonnet is a French term used to describe a thick cotton or silk thread that is used to outline lace designs (both hand and machine forms). The outline may be worked in a variety of stitches, such as buttonhole stitch, chain stitch (needle and tambour forms), running stitch, or in couching. A cordonnet thread was used, for instance, for the famous Mechlin lace and the Chantilly lace.
Cotton canvas is a nineteenth century term for a very fine canvas produced in Britain, France and Germany for Berlin wool work and comparable forms of embroidery. Both limp and stiffened forms were available. The French was regarded as the best, while the German version was seen as inferior. Often every tenth thread of the German cotton canvas was dyed yellow.
Duffel is the name of a thick, compact woollen cloth that originated in the fifteenth century in and around the Brabant (Belgium) town of Duffel. From the late sixteenth century it was introduced to Leiden in the northern Netherlands by refugees from what is now Belgium.
Embroidery canvas is an open-weave canvas, especially suitable for various types of decorative needlework, including counted thread embroidery. It has been used since the early seventeenth century and became especially popular in the nineteenth century with the advent of Berlin wool work.
The term even weave, or balanced weave, indicates that the size and spacing of the warp threads are more or less the same as those of the weft threads. So there might be, for example, ten warp threads per cm and ten weft threads per cm.
An extended tabby is a tabby weave in which the warp (ends) and weft (picks) threads are normally used in groups of two or more. Sometimes, however, the warps are used in pairs while the weft threads are single, or the other way around.
Flausch is the German name for a soft, fluffy, and thick, woollen material, produced with a double weave, often roughed, generally used for blankets and coats.
WV, 23 March 2022
Gabardine is originally a worsted woollen cloth, sometimes with the addition of cotton or another type of fibre, made waterproof with lanolin applied to the threads before the weaving process. The fabric was introduced by Thomas Burberry, who established the Burberry fashion house, and who patented the fabric in 1888.
From the end of the nineteenth century there were various products sold under the general heading of glass cloth. These included (a) textiles made from glass fibre; (b) a fine cloth coated with finely powdered glass, which was used for polishing or smoothing surfaces, and (c) a type of English linen cloth woven in a tabby weave with checks and/or warp stripes of various colours, including blue, green and red.