Contrary to many people's ideas, mid-blue is not the only colour used for Afghan chadaris. During the nineteenth century, for example, most urban women wore a white version of this garment. In 1903, however, white was banned by King Habibullah of Afghanistan (r. 1901-1919) and other colours were enforced. The king ordered that Muslim women should wear a khaki-coloured version, while Hindu women should wear a red or mustard yellow garment. Others should wear one that was slate coloured. The use of this form of colour coding ("Laws of Differentiation") in order to differ between various ethnic and religious groups, has a long tradition within the Islamic world.
In the late twentieth century the choice of colour began to say something about the origins and even the religious beliefs of the wearer. Burnt oranges and forest greens, for example, were fashionable around the city of Jalalabad, in the east of the country. Around Kabul mid-blue was more popular and this is the colour most people associate with the chadari. Yellow versions were worn by Hazara women in the centre of the country. In addition, some Hindu women were also forced to wear yellow by the Taliban. In the north of Afghanistan most women, especially the elderly, prefer white versions.
Black chadaris tended to be only used among very conservative and Taliban groups, notably in the Herat region. Immediately following the fall of the Taliban these were difficult to find. However, later they became more widely available as the Taliban regained some of their influence.
In 2006 it became fashionable for girls from Kabul to chose a grey-blue colour, while in northern Mazar-i Sharif white was still the most popular colour, with green being used in Kandahar and Khost in the south and east. Mid blue can be found in most provinces.
