Basically, hem stitching means that a number of warp threads are drawn out of the fabric close to the hem, and the remaining threads are bundled and secured with a thread and needle. There are various forms of the hem stitch, as for instance the antique hem stitch, the Italian hem stitch, the ladder hem stitch, the serpentine hem stitch, the 'sham' hem stitch, and the woven hem stitch.
Sources:
- DILLMONT, Thérèse de Dillmont (n.d.). Encyclopedia of Needlework.
- THOMAS, Mary (1934). Mary Thomas's Dictionary of Embroidery Stitches, esp. pp. 111-116.
Digital source of illustration (retrieved 4 June 2016)
WV