Matching pair of strapwork panels, European, mid- to late 16th century (TRC 2024.2934a-b).We have just had a wow moment at the TRC. A friend of mine, Marjolijn van Scherpenzeel, came to the TRC with several boxes of Catholic liturgical garments, which she donated to the TRC. They included some chasubles and dalmatics. Most of the garments were made from 18th century silks, and there are a couple that appear to be older. More about these pieces in a forthcoming blog!
In addition, there were some Chinese and European embroideries, including two long, narrow and matching panels. They looked familiar and I thought, no it was not possible, yes it is, no it’s not……
On closer examination, I could see that the panels (TRC 2024.2934a-b) in question are examples of strapwork (known as rolwerk in Dutch).
They are made with a plain, dark red, silk velvet ground, with blue- and cream-coloured silk shapes and straps, which have been applied (appliqué) to the ground and then outlined with two different types of silk cords (passementerie), which were couched down onto the velvet. All the stitching is hand done.
Detail of central part of a matching pair of strapwork panels, European, mid- to late 16th century (TRC 2024.2934a-b).Each of the panels is decorated with the same design, with a series of vases with foliage and flowers intertwined with S- and C-scrolls, worked in three types of cloth, namely a blue satin, an ivory satin and an ivory damask.
The back of the panels has been lined with two different silk cloths, one with blue and white checks, the other with red, white and blue checks. In addition, three of the edges of each panel have been finished with red and white silk fringing.
The panels are not in perfect condition, and in particular the silk lining and some of the silk appliqué sections are torn and fragile. On the other hand, their condition does make it easier to see how these long panels were constructed.
Strapwork was a popular design form, used to decorate textiles but also walls, tiles etc. The design was particularly popular between 1550 and 1620, and can be found in many parts of Europe, literally from England, via Belgium to Italy. Strapwork consists of strips or straps in repeating geometric patterns that are usually based on squares or rectangles and the occasional loop.
Close-up of one of a matching pair of strapwork panels, European, mid- to late 16th century (TRC 2024.2934a-b).The early forms of strapwork were relatively plain, but over time the patterns became more curvy, complicated and provided with scrolls of various forms, as well as enclosing grotesque and extravagant human, floral and animal forms, or mythical creatures.
Strapwork was popular for architectural forms, including plaster work for ceilings and walls, stone plaques, door decorations (both metal and wooden forms). It was also used, for example, for book covers and book illustrations, stain glass windows, even metal armour, not to mention woven and embroidered textiles used for garments as well as for wall and bed hangings.
This design style was copied, elaborated on and widely used in the mid-19th century as part of various Gothic and Renaissance revivals.
Based upon the types of textiles, cords, embroidery techniques and the relatively ‘simple’ nature of the strapwork, I think that the two panels the TRC has just been given are narrow wall hangings that date to about 1550 – 1600.
Lining of one of the matching pair of strapwork panels, European, mid- to late 16th century (TRC 2024.2934a-b).They are an amazing addition to the TRC Collection, which we are working hard on making not only more diverse, but also giving it ever more depth and a wider range of techniques.
I am now talking with various people to see if we could organise a special workshop with a talk about the history and various forms of strapwork, with an emphasis on the textile forms, as well as a practical session using appliqué and passementerie. We will let you know in due course what can be arranged and when!
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, Director, 21 October 2024.
