(21 Aug.) We are working hard on the next exhibition at the TRC. The theme is Asia-Africa textiles and is being organised as part of an international seminar week organised by the IIAS, Leiden University. The IIAS week is from the 19th to the 23rd September, but the exhibition will be opened on the 12th September and will last until December 2022.
The TRC exhibition looks at various aspects of the Asian-African-European trade in textiles, namely:
Fragment of a block printed textile using a resist technique, 14th century, from India, excavated at Quseir al-Qadim, Red Sea coast, Egypt (TRC 2020.0239).
• The medieval trade in Indian cotton textiles with block printed designs that were exported to Africa and Egypt, as well as the Mediterranean. On display will be a small group of this type of textiles that date to about 1350 and derive from excavations at Quseir al-Qadim, Egypt. For more information, see a TRC blog by Veerle van Kersen of 20 February 2020.
George cloth from West Africa, c. 2022 (TRC 2022.2349). This cloth is named after the British fortress of St George, Madras/Chennai.• George/Madras cotton textiles produced in Madras/Chennai, India, from the 17th century for the West African market where they were known as Georges. These textiles were also traded by Dutch companies and sent to Suriname and the West Indies, where they are still known as Madras stof. There will be plain Georges/Madras (i.e. brightly coloured checks), as well as embroidered Georges on display. For more information on George cloth, see a TRC blog by Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood on 7 January 2022.
• Wrap-around garments called Kangas have been worn by women in East Africa since the late 19th century. Kangas are characterised by having a saying in Swahili that is printed on one edge of the cloth (for instance: "I am not tired yet. I love you very much"). Many of these textiles were printed in India especially for this vast African market, although nowadays kangas are mainly produced in Kenya and Tanzania. They remain extremely popular as they allow women to express their thoughts and moods via the choice of a suitable saying and colour combination. For more information, see a TRC blog by Caroline Stone of 3 February 2021.
Kanga from Kenya, 1995. The saying states: NAHLIA NA WEW KUMBE HASIDINI WEWE (translation: "I told you my problems, but ah! you're the problem" (lit. "the malicious person") (TRC 2005.0220).
• A tale of two companies looks at Vlisco and Jansen Holland wax prints that are associated with Helmond, a city in the south of the Netherlands, for the last 150 years and remain a staple part of the West African textile market and of clothing for both men and women. For Vlisco, see also a TRC blog of 28 April 2013 about a special wax cloth (TRC 2013.0317) to commemorate the investiture of Willem Alexander as the new King of the Netherlands, on 30th April 2013.
A Vlisco wax print produced on the occasion of the investiture of King Willem Alexander on 30th April 2013 (TRC 2013.0317).
• The last main section looks at bazin, a cotton damask cloth that is generally produced in Europe (the best come from Austria and Germany). They are often printed in Europe or sent to West Africa where many of them are resist dyed in various manners. The display will include lengths of bazin cloths and complete garments for men.
Man's tunic from Mali, early 21st century. It is made from dyed strips of damask woven cloth (bazin). The strips were then sewn together to create the ground material for the garment (TRC 2008.0272).
The TRC Collection included numerous examples of garments made from the types of cloths mentioned above, but we wanted to include a range of modern, up-to-date textiles that reflect current trends with respect to patterns and colours. We got into contact with AfricanFabs in (Edam, north of Amsterdam, and with Jansen Holland (Helmond, southern part of the Netherlands). The staff at these two shops could not have been more helpful.
Last Saturday we went to Helmond to the huge warehouse/shop of Jansen Holland. The company, originally called Jansen and Naninck, was set up in 1935 by J.C. Jansen (the father of the current owner) and C.M.A. Naninck. They produced and sold soft-furnishing textiles, but later on specialised in West and Central African (wax) textiles. They have an online shop, but it shows only a small percentage of all the products they sell. If you have the chance to go in person please do, as it is far better to see and feel the actual textiles.
The author in paradise. At the shop/storage of Jansen Holland in Helmond, surrounded by wax prints for the West African market. Saturday 20 August. Photograph: Willem Vogelsang
Apart from their own products, Jansen Holland sells Bauer, Getzner, Julius Holland, Victoire and Vlisco products, which all specialise in the West African markets. They include bazins , embroidered georges, and printed wax textiles. Surely a modern sale's line are the good quality typical Dutch farmer's kerchiefs. Are they also for the West African market?
Vlisco cloth at Jansen Holland, Helmond (TRC 2022.2365).About 90% of Jansen’s products are exported to West and Central Africa. Some of the prints are very colourful, while others are more subdued. Traditionally different colour combinations appealed to different groups, such as the Igbo in Nigeria who preferred yellow/red combinations, in Ghana white/brown combinations were popular, while groups in Benin, Mali and Tonga preferred more subdued colour combinations. Nowadays, however, there is much more of an overlap and various patterns and colour combinations are driven by more ‘pan-African' rather than strictly local demands.
We had an interesting discussion with the staff at Jansen’s who are really knowledgeable and helpful. They made time to explain various patterns, the names, history, and indeed popularity of this print versus that one.
Wax cloth, patchwork design, Vlisco/Jansen Holland We went to Helmond with the idea of getting 3-5 bazins (damasks) for the exhibition, but we came out with four bags full of textiles, including more Vliscos and Jansens that represent different stories and moods, embroidered Georges, as well as plain and printed bazins, all of which will really enrich the exhibition. The final result is going to be an interesting, historically diverse and colourful display, with some familiar items and many that are just a joy to see.
Over the next few weeks we will have a look at each of these different themes in a series of blogs. In addition, we will be putting just about everything online in the form of a digital exhibition. The actual exhibition, or indeed elements of the exhibition, will be available for loan to suitable venues from January 2023 onwards.
Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, 21 August 2022
