Last week has seen some interesting events and developments. We have just completed the September intensive textile course. It was great fun with enthusiastic participants, although I must admit by the end of the week everyone was very tired. A sign that we have all worked hard!
Men's shirt in Steampunk style, using black cloth decorated with paisley motifs, ca. 2020 (TRC 2020.3834). Photograph: Violent Delights, UK.
There were requests for an advanced textile course. Something I will give serious thought to. The next (basic) intensive textile course is from 16-20 November. The following four dates in 2021 are already published online. If there are four to six people then we can always arrange a special course for the group.
Various garments and textiles were donated to the TRC Collection and these will be added to the collection in the next few days, including an early 20th century Italian wedding dress that was originally worn by the grandmother of one of our volunteers.
At the same time, we are slowly organising the TRC’s next exhibition – about the history, development and widespread use of the paisley (buteh) motif throughout the world and more specifically how this motif has been used in Western fashion over the last 150 years. It was to be an exhibition that emphasised the Paisley shawl, but we quickly realised there is a much bigger story to be told. Literally, as noted in an earlier blog, it’s a motif that is worn by bikers and grannies, and from Africa to America and Japan.
A Steampunk corset decorated with paisley motifs, ca. 2020 (TRC 2020.3832). Photograph: Violent Delights, UK.
And this week we can add another group that includes followers and wearers of paisley, namely, Steampunk! Now I must admit, I have heard the term ‘Steampunk’, but only vaguely, I am currently learning more. They are basically groups who are influenced by the steam driven world of the late 18th and 19th centuries and have strong Gothic and romantic overtones. We came upon them when searching for ‘unusual’ and dramatic manifestations of paisley. We found the UK-based company of Violent Delights. They proved to be very helpful and super quick in getting the Steampunk items to Leiden, namely a woman’s coat (TRC 2020.3831), an elaborate corset (TRC 2020.3832) and dress (TRC 2020.3833) and a man’s shirt (TRC 2020.3834). These garments are going to be some of the highlights of the exhibition!
We have also been discussing with an Osaka-based firm whether we can obtain a Japanese kimono and obi decorated with the paisley motif. Furthermore, we recently acquired a ‘West African’ cloth with a paisley design, of low quality, which appears to have been made and printed in China for the African market.
More details about these pieces will appear over the next month or so.
Gillian Vogelsang, 27 September 2020.
