At first, most of the charts were made in Berlin by various firms, including Herz und Wegener and P. Trübe. Later, charts were also printed outside of Berlin. Copies of these charts and original designs were soon produced throughout northern Europe as well as northern America. The Dutch company of A. W. Sijthoff, Leiden, for example, worked with the German company of Emil Ebner & Co., in Stuttgart. The early charts were produced using engraved copper plates and then the designs were hand painted with a thin paint.
The firm of A.W. Sijthoff was founded in 1851 by Albertus Willem Sijthoff (1829-1913), from Leiden, The Netherlands. The firm still continous its publishing activities under the name of Luitingh-Sijthoff. In 1852 the firm moved to new premises along what is now called the Doezastraat, in the centre of Leiden. The current building, still bearing the name of Sijthoff, is now used as a cultural centre..
De Gracieuse. Magazijn voor Neerland's Vrouwen was a Dutch fashion and handwork magazine first published in 1862 by A.W. Sijthoff in Leiden. In 1865, the magazine merged with another journal, called Aglaja. Maandboekje voor Dames Handwerken, and continued under the name of De Gracieuse. Geïllustreerde Aglaja, which between 1866 and 1936 appeared twice a month and was filled with black and white fashion images, paper patterns for clothing and examples for handwork.