The TRC is officially shut until the beginning of March because of its move to new premises. But this does not mean that TRC activities have stopped. We are all carrying on from home and meeting in Leiden several times a week to discuss the current situation, work and projects.

Fig. 1. Long, dark red cloth, decoratively woven with narrow mid-red stripes at regular intervals. Across the middle of the cloth there is a broad band of silver thread embroidery with stripes of repeating, geometric motifs. Tunisia, first half 20th century (TRC 2026.0187).

by Emilie Lambert, TRC collection manager, 23 January 2026

Fig. 1. Egyptian woven fragment from the 1st millennium AD, with stylised figures and waves, all in dark purple on an unbleached linen ground (TRC 2023.0073).One of the most common phrases heard at the TRC is that the collection holds textile items from prehistory to today. To visitors, this point emphasises our understanding of the value of historical textiles as well as the cultural relevance of a modern fast-fashion collection.

Due to preservation and availability, most of the TRC collection postdates the 17th century. There is, however, a considerable medieval collection and a significant collection of Coptic textile fragments from the first millennium AD (Fig. 1). But there are textiles even older than that! The oldest textile at the TRC, and indeed one of the oldest preserved textiles in the world comes from Çatalhöyük (Fig. 2).

The site can be found under many spellings, Catal Hoyuk, Catalhoyuk, and more recently Çatalhöyük. As an archaeology student it was impossible not to hear about this site regularly.

The proud author with her first copy of The Atlas of World EmbroideryA very proud author, Friday 16th January 2026.

Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, director TRC, today received her author's copies of The Atlas of World Embroidery: A Global Exploration of Heritage and Styles (Princeton University Press).

"A visually captivating, deeply informative overview. . . . An exquisite, fascinating volume."—Kirkus, starred review

"Emphasizing the spectacular visual diversity of the art form, Vogelsang-Eastwood illuminates embroidery’s global history."—Kate Mothes, Colossal

The book will officially come out on 17 February. Copies can be ordered here. For Amazon.nl, click here.

A Dutch version of the same book, published by WBooks, has the title: Atlas van de borduurkunst: Een wereldreis langs erfgoed en stijlen. It comes out on 19 February. For Amazon.nl and the Dutch version of the book, click here.

Quite a day: The book arrived on the same day that Gillian closed the doors of the 'old' TRC building along the Hogewoerd in Leiden, where the TRC has worked since September 2009. The TRC will soon, in early March, move to a beautiful urban villa just behind the Leiden railway station, along the Boerhaavelaan. A new future for the TRC, and more publications, more workshops and courses, and all sorts of textile events.

Today, Friday 16th January, we finished the first stage of the TRC move to other premises. We started off today with a traditional meal prepared by Herra, our Indonesian volunteer. The meal included rice, salt and boiled eggs. Such food, accompanied with shrimps, is associated with the blessings for a move and good luck with all that will happen in the future. How appropriate. And how kind of her to prepare and bring the meal. 

For three days the removal people have been busy loading the c. 4,000 boxes of the textiles and dress collection, plus furniture and whatever else that has to be shifted, into twelve containers. These will be stored and be taken to the Boerhaavelaan in Leiden in early March.

The removal team and TRC staff posing in front of the rapidly emptying former premises of the TRC along the Hogewoerd.

The last few days were very exciting, and the removal lads were absolutely great. They worked very hard, perhaps stimulated by the coffee and biscuits that we provided. We are looking forward to seeing them during the second stage of the move, and we are sure that they won't mind helping us again.

Indonesian meal, prepared by one of the TRC volunteers, to guarantee good fortune with the move. Friday morning, 16th January.

It is very empty!

 The last act: Removing the TRC sign board. We will stick it up in the new building.

Fig. 1. Padded container for a glass kohl bottle. Palestine, early/mid 20th century (TRC 2005.0086).The announcement in December 2025 that kohl is now included in the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity sent me immediately to the TRC’s on-line catalogue in order to learn more. What exactly is kohl and what role does it play in dress and identity?

The UNESCO description states that “Arabic Kohl is both a craft and a social practice that is integral to the lifestyle of Bedouin and nomadic tribes, as well as rural, marshland, and fishing communities in the Arab region.... In addition to being a symbol of community identity and a key part of daily beauty routines, kohl is used as a physical and spiritual healing remedy."

The UNESCO text continues: "[Kohl] promotes dialogue and fosters meaningful exchanges between nations and communities of women. Kohl-rimmed eyes also serve as a strong form of female expression, particularly in societies where only eyes are visible due to face coverings."

First and foremost, may this year be a peaceful and successful year for everyone.

As you probably know by now, the TRC is moving, within two months, to new premises and we soon hope to attract more fellows, interns and volunteers, to help the existing core of indefatigable supporters who have helped the TRC to prepare the institute for its new and exciting next phase. Many thanks to all of you!

The first additions to the TRC Collection in 2026: Two hand-woven Guatemalan ikats decorated with large pom-poms and tassels. Guatemala, late 20th century (TRC 2026.0001 and TRC 2026.0002).

For the next few weeks, until mid-February 2026, we will be busy with the Herculean (or so it feels) physical move of the TRC (and its collection and library!) from the Hogewoerd to our new premises on the Boerhaavelaan (No. 6), just behind the Leiden Central Railway Station.

After the move (well, there may still be some painters wandering around), we will be presenting the next session of the renowned TRC Five-Day Intensive Textile Course. There is still one place left for the course should anyone be interested! The next edition of the Intensive Course will be organised in April, and there are currently still some places available.

But the series of Intensive Courses is only one of the many activities we are organising at our new home. The period from March to September 2026 includes a diverse programme with many workshops, lectures and courses, which will be complemented by a series of large and small exhibitions that reflect the TRC’s amazing collection.

Please come and join us, and at the same time have a look at, and enjoy, our new premises. The programme of activities can be seen, and/or downloaded here. Please feel free to register (This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.) for one or more of the events, and don’t forget to keep an eye on the agenda. We are planning many more activities!

Gillian Vogelsang, Director TRC, 2 January 2026

Boreray Ram. Commons Wikimedia.It’s a good feeling to think that the TRC’s next Intensive Textile Course (23-27 February, 2026) will take place in our new home. One of the most enjoyable parts of that course was the section about fibre identification. The chance to see, touch and smell the incredible variety of plant and animal fibres that have been turned into textiles is amazing.

The TRC has samples of a wide range of animal fibres in its collection, from alpacas, camels, goats, horses, llamas, seals, silk worms (both wild and cultivated) and, of course, sheep.

The TRC recently received a donation of wool from a very rare breed of sheep—the Boreray (TRC 2025.1854a) The wool is very soft, lanolin-rich, with colours that range from white to light grey. It was collected this summer by a friend of mine, from one of the several small herds in the Orkney Islands. Because she is a spinner, she also donated some spun Boreray wool (TRC 2025.1854b).

TRC.1997.0288The paisley motif has become one of the most versatile, loved and familiar forms that can be worn by anyone, literally from a tiny baby, a granny to a Steampunker and a biker! The lecture will include a history of the paisley motif, its origins in Iran (where it is known as buteh), how it moved to India and from there around the world. The motif can be found from Africa to East-Asia.  Over 175 years ago the buteh became known as the paisley motif in many parts of the West, when the motif was widely used in the textile industry in the Scottish town of Paisley.

Augusta de Gunzbourg is head of exhibitions and education at the TRC, and has been studying the TRC collection closely for the past five years, working on telling its many stories. She has a  Master’s degree of Leiden University and her research focuses on historical fashion and Asian textiles. 

• Date: Sunday, 19 April 2026.
• Time: 14.00 - 15.00 pm (the TRC will remain open for participants until 16.00).
• Venue: TRC Leiden, Boerhaavelaan 6, 2334 EN, Leiden.
• Lecturer: Augusta de Gunzbourg.
• Language: English.
• Costs: 7.50 euros (to be paid on the day itself). Coffee/tea are provided. 

Please register in advance: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.