The scales were prepared by scraping them from the fish, steeping them in cold water until they were soft and pliable, and then two small holes were pierced with a needle near the base of each scale.
The scales were sometimes coloured with a mixture of varnish and powdered colour. Once ready the scales were arranged in an overlapping pattern and then sewn down. Stems, veins, tendrils and other fine details were worked in stem stitch using a fine chenille thread, gold thread or a filoselle. The centre of the flowers was often filled with French knots worked in silk or with beads, pearls or spangles. This type of embroidery was only suitable for places where it would not come into contact with friction.
See also the TRC Needles entry on beetlewing embroidery.
Sources:
- CAULFEILD, Sophia F. A. and Blanche C. SAWARD (1882). The Dictionary of Needlework, London: Upcott Gill, pp. 207-208.
- MORRIS, Barbara (1962). Victorian Embroidery, London, Herbert Jenkins, Ltd., p. 162.
Digital source of illustration (retrieved 9th July 2016).
GVE