Woven and interlocking materials
Aida is an even weave cloth often used for counted thread embroidery. The material is mesh-like in construction for ease of stitch counting and has enough stiffness so that an embroidery frame or hoop is not necessary. Older forms of Aida are made of linen, while most twentieth-century examples are of cotton.
Atlas is the Arabic term for a form of striped satin cloth. There are various forms of atlas. The material is made in yellows and ochres for the Yemeni market. These are colours that are often regarded as being African in origin, rather than the red, white and blue combinations that are more commonly associated with Syrian atlas used for Palestinian or Egyptian garments.
Binca is an English (UK) trade name given to a form of embroidery canvas that is woven in groups of threads, rather than individual threads. It is consequently sometimes classed as a mock-leno weave. It is the same as aida, but slightly coarser, with about 2-3 meshes per cm. The name Binca appears in the late 1960's. It is sometimes used in English publications as a synonym for aida or bincanette.
Brocatelle is a type of woven cloth comparable to a brocade, but with a design in high relief. This type of cloth has been made in Europe and elsewhere since the eighteenth century, usually on a Jacquard loom. Brocatelle normally has a firm texture, with a distinctive blistered or puffed appearance. This type of cloth was used for soft furnishings, notably curtains and upholstery.
Calico is originally a cotton cloth imported from the East (India). It is named after the Indian city of Kozhikode (Kerala State; known by the English as Calicut) in southwestern India. From about 1578 onwards the word calico has come to mean, in England, a plain white unprinted, and unbleached cotton cloth. It may contain un-separated husk parts.
Cloth of gold was an extremely expensive fabric produced at different periods and in different parts of the world, but especially known from late medieval Europe, and produced particularly in northern Italy. It is characterised by gold (or sometimes silver) threads (normally passing) woven into a precious, often a silk fabric, creating a stiff and heavy (and very expensive) material.